Was it just a coincidence that the Maui Beach Hotel where I
was staying sits on Kahalui Bay where Kamehameha landed in the late 1790 with
his armada of Alapa warriors? From the
beach at the hotel, I can see the mouth of the impregnable Wailuku Valley
backed by steep cliffs and the primordial Iao needle
 |
| Iao Needle |
piercing clouds hovering
on its flank. .
I tried to imagine
the scene. Hundreds of warriors landing in double-hulled outriggers wearing the
red malos of war, carrying spears and short knives. They trampled over the
Mauin forces that met them at this beach and then marched “onward to Wailuku”
several miles inland to defeat Kahikili,
 |
| Mauin Warrior |
Kamehameha’s arch rival for power over
the Islands. They rolled Lopeka, a cannon seized from a western sloop, up the
rocky trail until they backed the Mauin forces into a corner at Wailuku. The
slaughter that ensued was harsh even for the time.
Was it just chance that Kona Winds literally blew me off the
beach at Paia yesterday and forced me to the venture to the sheltered valley? When I arrived, the iconic Iao needle normally
obscured by thick clouds flashed a brilliant green spotlighted by afternoon
sun. The sheer 3,000- foot-pali that protect the valley sheathed in thick
blue-green verdure are impossible to climb.
 |
| Wailuku River |
Water whispers sweetly through taro ponds with
rust-red ti leaves on the edges creating an Eden-like setting for a Hawaiian
village. Four streams merge here to form the Wailuku River that was clogged
with bodies and ran red when Kamehameha’s warriors finally did conquer the
Mauin forces after many failed attempts.
It seemed a guiding force brought me here to
witness the glory of this valley. Was it the spirit of Ka’hahumnu who wanted me
to know the beauty of this place haunted by the ghosts of so brave warriors?
Was she trying to help me get the Hawaiian story right? I like to think so.
Adventure-travel writer, Linda
Ballou, shares Great Outdoor days in L.A, as well as a host of travel articles
on her site, along with information about her travel memoir, Lost Angel Walkabout-One Traveler’s Tales,
her historical novel Wai-nani, A Voice
from Old Hawai’i and her latest action-adventure novel The Cowgirl Jumped over the Moon at-www.LindaBallouAuthor.com.